April 2009

20% off Poison Ivy Control

Save 20% off Poison Ivy Control

Protect your family from poison ivy. Poison ivy is a difficult to control and dangerous weed. Our poison ivy control program involves a series of treatments beginning in the spring that will manage the growth and spread of poison ivy in your landscape.

LEAVES OF THREE LET IT BE?
Identifying, and dealing with poison ivy.



Poison ivy is the scourge of many home owners. The effects of exposure vary from person to person, but in general the oil of poison ivy called urushiol causes an allergic reaction that causes an itchy rash, and blistering. All parts of the plant contain urushiol so extreme care must be taken when handling any part of the plant at any time of year. Once established poison ivy is very difficult to control.

  • 1/4 of an ounce of urushiol is enough to give every person on earth a rash
  • Never burn poison ivy, the smoke will contain urushiol and can get in the eyes and respiratory systems of people and animals
  • Poison ivy spreads quickly and is resistant to most herbicides
  • Poison ivy is most effectively treated in the spring when plants are young
  • If you think you have been exposed, products like Tecnu are very effective if used in a timely manner


Identification



The classic leaves of three rhyme is useful, but also describes other vine-like Plants like Virginia creeper
  • Poison ivy has very shiny leaves
  • As the leaves get bigger they take on a slightly lumpy leathery appearance
  • The stems of poison ivy are very thin compared the size of the leaves

Cedar Apple Rust

The Double Life of Cedar Apple Rust

By Michael Rosenbusch

I remember very clearly the first time I saw one in person. It was one of those classic New England days; early spring, cold, and raw. It had rained all night, and in the morning as I was walking through a misty grove of eastern red cedars I saw the amazing spore bearing structures of cedar apple rust. They looked like orange golf balls covered in sticky tentacles hung like Christmas ornaments in the trees.

The aptly named cedar apple rust has two hosts, members of the Malus (apples) genus and members of the Juniperus (cedars) genus. Cedar apple rust spends the winter in lumpy structures it creates called tilial horns on the stems of junipers. The fungi lay dormant until one special day in the spring when temperature and humidity are just right. The sticky golf balls produce spores called tilospores. Tiliospores can only infect apples. As the tilial horns dry the tiliospores are forced out to drift on the breeze and infect apples. At the spot of infection a lesion forms, as the season progresses the lesion grows to about the size of a pea. During the spring the lesion thickens, and by early summer ¼ inch tubes form on the bottom of the leaf, similar structures are also produced on infected fruit. To the naked eye the tubes look almost furry. These structures called aecia produce the aeciospores that infect junipers and complete the organism’s life cycle. The infected cedars are not harmed by the fungi; it is the apple stage where serious damage can be done.

Leaf Lesion

Like most fungal infections the three most important factors governing its spread and severity are host susceptibility, weather, and in the case of rusts, the presence or absence of alternate hosts. There are many varieties and cultivars or apple that are resistant to cedar apple infection and that is great if you are picking new plants, but it doesn’t help your existing trees. The weather is hugely important to the development of cedar apple rust.

Like most fungal infections cedar apple rust needs a moist leaf surface to germinate. Cool, wet, overcast springs favor outbreaks of fungal disease. We can’t control the weather, but you the homeowner can help by insuring good air flow around your trees. Pruning and culling trees around your prized apples, as well as the apples themselves will increase air circulation and slow the development of the pathogen. Because cedar apple rust needs junipers as its alternate host an effective way to mitigate infection is to remove junipers from your property. This strategy is of course not always practical, but it may be possible to at least remove junipers growing close to or under your apples.

Cedar apple rust is an interesting organism, but it can also be highly destructive. Cedar apple rust blights leaves and ruins fruit. Heavily blighted leaves will die and drop from trees. Repeated years of infection can lead to tree decline and death. Cedar apple rust is a fact of life, but with proper knowledge, and timing it can be controlled. The best strategy for protecting your plants is to have a comprehensive Integrated Pest Management program. A combination of cultural controls, understanding of the fungi’s life cycle, and prudent protective applications will ensure not only the health of your apples, but your landscape in general.

Asian Longhorn Beetle

Asian Longhorn Beetle is here, protect your trees

The Asian Longhorn Beetle is in Massachusetts.
The discovery of the Asian longhorn beetle represents the most serious threat to the New England landscape in living memory. The Asian longhorn beetle attacks healthy maples, birch, elm, willow, poplar, and horse chestnut. The only treatment for infested trees is to have the tree cut down, but we can protect your trees form attack. We can inspect your trees and give them a protective treatment that is taken up into the tissue of your trees offering year long protection from this potentially devastating insect.

Help stop the spread of Asian longhorn Beetle, check out our Asian longhorn beetle page, and learn how to identify the insect.

Horticultural Oils

Horticultural Oil
The Environmentally friendly pest treatment

Save 20% on our horticultural oil treatments. Be proactive in you landscape insect control. Our mineral oil treatments help to insure a pest free landscape.

Our horticultural oil treatment consists of a mineral oil spray that smothers pest insect eggs before they hatch. This treatment is non-toxic approach to pest management.

Monthly Tip: Watering

Without water there would be no life. Surely, this makes water one of our most valued resources, yet, most lawns with automatic irrigation systems are overwatered, money down the drain. (Please excuse the pun)

  • Consult with your lawn technician; he can advise you on the water needs of your lawn
  • Most springs your lawn doesn’t need supplemental water, spring rains bring green grass, until late may even early June.
  • Your irrigation contractor started up your system in April, set the schedule and left the system on. Turn it off, for now
  • Some stress is good. Push your lawn. Exercise those roots. Make it work. The first signs of drought stress are a very recognizable blue tint with curled leaves and a tell tale footprint when the grass should spring back up. Now add the water
  • When you do add water, treat each zone independently based on soil types, slopes, sun and wind exposure
  • Water only in the early a.m. Any other time requires maintenance, supervision, and applications only a golf course superintendent can offer
  • Water thoroughly, enough to soak to a 4-6” depth. Careful, don’t allow surface run off
  • Water infrequently. It may be several days before you need to add more water. Look underground, use a spade to check depth of soil moisture
  • Every summer is different. Some summers irrigation systems aren’t required more that a few times
  • Now enjoy the benefits. Responsible use of a precious resource: Reduction in turf diseases, Reduction in shallow rooted weeds, BENT GRASS!